Fontainebleau

In the autumn vacation (week 42) a group of Danish junior climber from all over the country, drove in four minibuses to the amazing boulder spot, approximately 60 kilometers south of Orly airport in Paris, the forest Fontainebleau.
I had been in Fontainebleau as one of my first trips almost just after I started climbing. It´s about four years ago now, and then I had no rock climbing experiences, and no idea of what this area involved. The forest has an area at 25.000 ha. This implies bouldering enough to fill in much more than a lifetime of climbing. The quality of the rock and of the climbing is so high, that you can climb there a whole life, on new lines every day and only try those with high quality.

We arrived Sunday morning and had to put up our tent at the camp. We were all tired after the travel, but at the same time, our finger tips were ready to feel some rock. The problem was only, that it rained cats and dogs. And it just kept on raining for hours. So when we finally had made a camp, and were sure that all of our bags were wet :-S we just laid in our tents, hearing music, looking guidebooks and prepared to give 100 % the next day.

The first climbing day was all about getting used to the rock, instead of the indoor climbing we all were used to. We walked around in groups and just climbed what we wanted. Nothing really hard was done by any of us, I think the hardest I did was a 7a+ flash.
But we met some other really cool climbers from Scotland. There were a lot of junior climbers, also some who are at the Scottish junior national team. Some of us who have been to some international junior competitions had already met those from the Scottish team, at competitions in Edinburgh’s impressive indoor climbing gym.
A few of us from Denmark, and some of those from Scotland climbed most of the day together, especially at a 7b which most important hold had broken off, and the crux had therefor  become MUCH harder. None of us did it, but we had fun, and we found an alternative line which was really nice.

Calum at our alternative line

Calum at our alternative line

Already after this first day, I could feel that my skin definitely wasn’t used to climb at rocks. It was already thin. I was a little nervous about how much my skin would allow me to climb. But since we only had 4-5 days to climb I was keen to climb as much as possible.
The next days we climbed different places every day. I tried to climb as much lines, with as many nice people as possible. It was not because I didn’t wanted to project at one certain hard line, I was just that I could not find the right line, and at the same time this was my first really boulder trip, so I wanted to get a lot experience about a lot of different styles of bouldering.
So I did A LOT of 6’Th and start 7’Th grade flash. Which I am satisfied with, but still I hadn’t tried any hard climb jet. Of cause what I had already done was hard for me, but I hadn’t jet tried anything harder than 7a+.

At our rest day we drove to Paris, and walked around in the city. We went to the big outdoor shop chain, Au Vieux Campeur, where I bought a new crash pad, and a new pair of 5.10 shoes. I’ve never climbed with five ten before, but it shows up, that 5.10’s black wings, is one of the best climbing shoes I’ve ever tried.
The small, handy and light Evolv iceman crash pad was not that expensive, it is thick but not heavy and then it is very easy to transport because of its size.
48 Rue des Écoles, 75005 Paris

The last two climbing days it rained at night and in the morning, which did that some of the rocks were a little wet, sometimes too wet to even try to climb.
We went to a place called Rocher Fin, that is not as popular as a lot of the places in Fontainebleau, why it is not so popular remain a riddle for me. Every single line I tried, just had so high quality, and it was so fun. A France climber, who has developed a lot of the lines in some areas in Fontainebleau, was a friend of some of our trainers, and he came and climbed with us. It was funny to see his view to bouldering compared to ours. He walked around in his climbing shoes all the time, used only a little chalk and had no crash pad but a small mat that he could rub off his shoes at. And then he used something that was totally strange for me. A puf. A puf is a kind of a sock with a chalk/resin ball inside which they hit the rock with, so that the holds get chalk/resin at it, and it can therefore be easier to hold. I don’t really know whether I think it is bad karma, or if I think it is cool enough. It’s not just the same as using chalk, but still it sort of is. If everyone uses it, then it’s fair for everyone, but still. Resin is bad for the rock since it is not washed away when it rains, in the same way as chalk is, resin is also bad for the shoes. I guess that’s why puf’s is not allowed in some countries.
But anyway… We also met the Scottish young guns again, and we climbed and talked a lot with them, and actually I initiated a good relationship with some of them, I write with them on facebook sometimes, and met some of them at severely international competitions afterwards.
I did a some of 7a and 7a+ flash’s that day, I did a 7b+ and tried a 7c which I was pretty close to do. So all in all, that was a great day.

Strong Scott

Scott at Bull dog in Rocher fin

Walking in the wood

Magnus, Theis and I are hearing music on our way through the forest after a long climbing day in Rocher Fin

Our last climbing day took place in Cuvier. There are like two levels of the Cuvier climbing area. An upper and a lower part (Bas Cuvier).
We started out in the ¨morning, by climbing at the upper part, where there were a lot of fine lines, but some of them, really hard, even though the grades wasn’t near any difficult. But I did a 7a+ flash, a really sketchy 7b and I almost linked a 7c+, but well, I didn’t do it so…
We went to the lower part and ate lunch, and just when we were about to go climb again, it started raining. Some drove home, but even though my skin was very thin and it rained, I decided to stay and try to find something dry, it was the last climbing day after all. So we were a few who stayed, and we found a group of people who climbed at an overhanging boulder with a tree’s leafs as a cover above. It wasn’t completely dry, but drier than anything else we could find. So we joined the group and experienced, that some of them were our Scottish friends. Unfortunately we only just said hallo to them before they took home. I tried a really cool 7b, and did it within a couple of minutes. There was a sit start, as was 7c, so I tried that. It was hard, but actually it was the last move (which was also the top of the 7b) that caused me the biggest trouble, when I tried to link the 7c sit start with the 7b stand start.
It began raining cats and dogs, and everything became wet and humid.
The other strong Danish juniors worked at a 7a next to me line (which was soaked with water), and some tried the 7b. Those on the 7b used another beta than I did, and a France climber came over and tried the same beta as the other Danish guys. But since it didn’t worked for any of them, and I was so close to do the problem every time I tried, I obstinately stayed to my beta.

Focus man!

Hold on!

Me at Carnage in Bas Cuvier

I was bleeding from three of my fingertips, and there pure blood signs at the holds. I knew this was the last day I had to climb at rocks for several months, so I kept pushing on, and got even more frustrated for every try I felt in the very top move, which wasn’t the crux by the way.
But finally it sticked the last move, and even though 7c bloc is not that hard, I got really satisfied. The moves were defiantly the best I’ve ever tried on a boulder problem, I really gave me for doing it, and the conditions sucked!

It took about 5 weeks before my skin was anything near normal again, so overall, a fantastic trip! Fontainebleau, I will return :-D

Gruppebillede foran Cul de Chien

Group picture at Cul de Chien

The best lines I tried:

Rocher fin:

  • Désordre 6c
  • Bull dog 7b+
  • Mrs du Plus 7a+
  • Coeur Aride 6b
  • Vers Glas Fréquent 7c

Cul de Chien:

  • Aire de Repos 6a
  • Idées Noires 6c+
  • La Toi de Cul de Chien 7a
  • Retour de la Chenille 7a+
  • Grande Saussice 7a+

95.2

  • Duel dans de Lune 6c
  • Looney Tunes 6c
  • Le Pieds dans la Lune 7a+
  • Retour aux Sources 7a
  • Message in a Bottle 6b

Bas Cuvier:

  • Carnage 7b

Summery of the summer vacation pt.2

Like I already have told, I went to Spain with my family the day after I came home from Ardeche.

It was a pleasant flight on about 2 hours. We got our rental car and began driving north from Barcelona in the late morning. We only got maps on our phones, and with bad coverage it was a little difficult to see how to get to our friends who were already in the home we had rented for two weeks. We thought it would take between 1-1,5 hours. With wrong directions, a slow tempo because of our unsure sense of place it ended up approximately to be a 3 hours’ drive :-S
Well, the house were beautiful with an amazing view because of its location on the very top of a hill in the town Pals. We should be in the small town Pals for four days before my climbing mate came to Barcelona, where we were to pick him up. I wanted to use some of the time until then, to explore some of the climbing spots in the area so that we easily could go there and climb a lot when he first came. But I had the experience that it was easier said than done. We knew that there were about three small sport climbing spots within 20 minutes’ drive from our house, and we did came to the nearest which also should be the biggest and best. The only problem was that we couldn’t see where the routes were on the rock. There were like a kilometer long cliff, and there were only climbing on approximately 60-70 meters of it. When we then (second time we drove there) found out where it were, we wanted to get near the rock. Then the problem was that there were 400 meters from the road to the rock, and there wasn’t any bloody path. So even though we tried to get to the rock, we couldn’t because of all the scrub.

IMG_7525

 

 

 

So no lead climbing those four days. In turn we did found a pretty cool deep water solo spot about one hour’s drive from where we lived. It wasn’t that high, but very nice climbing.
The day Magnus should come, my family and I went to Barcelona in the morning, and spent the whole day just go sightseen in among others The Gaudi park and at the Gaudi tower. About 23 pm. we drove to the airport to pick up Magnus. It was good to see him, but we were all pretty tired, so we drove home and went all to bed pretty fast.

In the morning we agreed to take to the beach about 5 kilometers from where we lived. My dad, Magnus and I ran down there, and the last two kilometers we really made it to competition to get first. We were all three so excursed after the run that we had to lay at the beach for half an hour before we considered to do anything. Then we swam about 400 meters, and it felt unusual hard after the run. We did however made this to a tradition and the rest of the vacation (two weeks) we swam about half a kilometer every day. And after this vacation I’ve began to swim a lot more.
Well Magnus were very avid to get started climbing, and he persuaded my dad to drive us approx. 5 kilometers down the beach where some rocks next to the river started. We didn’t expect to find anything at all, but maybe there were some rocks which we could do some deep water soloing on.
But we actually did found some pretty cool rocks, and suddenly we saw that some of it was bolted. It looked pretty funny climbing, and we decided to go there to climb the following day.

It ended up to be one of the places we climbed most on the whole vacation. There were a few really nice lines, all in the start of seventh grade. Most of the routes were pretty steep, a lot of the rocks were loose, and there were no chalk at the rock at all. So on almost all of the routes we started out by check that the bolts were safe, and to find the holds and brush them. Then we gave them a go in second try or for the belay man, a flash go.

 

IMG_74742012-07-23 15.39.03IMG_7494
IMG_7411
 At home, we found a funny alternative way to train some hard crimpy boulder problems.

We also did some seriously hard traning. I will try to put up a some of the training in a program in the following weeks.

 

We drove another place to stay the last week, and climbed a lot in a place called Girraf.
Here are some pics of some of the places, Magnus, my dad (Simon) and I climbed at the trip.

IMG_7601Climbing at Girraf

IMG_7604IMG_7716

Magnus at a 7a at Girraf                            Me just after the crux of af very nice 6c+ at Girraf

IMG_7858    The Tunnel in Barcelona

 

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Cool

climbing

by

Magnus

at

IMG_7535

our

fine

deepwater

(psyko bloc)

spot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More to come. So check out the blog again soon ;-)

Summary of the summer vacation pt. 1

As I already have told, I started out by travel to Linz to compete in the youth competition. The trip it self was very nice, and I really enjoyed being together with the rest of the national team, but also the people from the other nations. But terms of the climbing, no one from Denmark climbed so well. I don’t think any of us were satisfied about our climbing. We all ended in the bad half of the rank :-(

We stayed for a couple of days, and during these days we trained in the climbing gym of Linz. Since only a few of us train together, because we live so far away from each other, we utilized that we were together in a international gym. Actually the gym wasn’t as fantastic as I expected. Of cause it was better than anything we have in Denmark, but compared to for instant Ratho in Edinburgh, the one in Münich or Imst this gym wasn’t anything special. We trained some on-sight/flash, and afterwards or trainer gave us a taste of how we could do a good basic core training program. It was exstremely tough, and I seriously don’t think that any of us could accomplish the hole program that day.

By the way. During this program, Johanna Ernst (a young and very skilled Austrian climber) came and trained in the gym. At the moment we took home, she tried some of the routes from the competition.

As I also already have mentioned, I went to Ardeche in france to climb some rock. I came down there in good state and already the first day Thomas and I went over to a sektor called Mazet. The grades were incredible hard. I only climbed a 6a+ (5.10b) and a 6b (5.10c), just to feel the rock on the first day. I almost fell at both of them, and my strong friend Thomas, did fell at both of them. Very shocked about the routes grades, we went home. (We lived just on the other side of the river, which means like 500 yards away).

The next many days, we climbed in the morning and the evening (it was like 40 degrees in the day hours, and the rockwas right in the sun, so we felt that it was too hot) and the rest of the days, we just swam in the river, walked on slagline and jumped into the river from rocks in the water.

There are three camping sites just next to each other, on one hand they are laying strait up and down of the river, and the coolest face climbing on the other hand. Even though there are about 5 other big sektors in walk distance, Thomas and I only climed on one sektor, Actinidias. Most of the wall are face or about 5-10 degrees overhang. But of cause there are also a few slap and some very overhanging routes on the Actinidias sektor. Thomas was the youngest climber in Denmark to do a 7c route (5.12d). We both did the route last year when we were in Arco. “Povero illuso” it is called. He did it in 7th try, and this year he was determined to do an 8a (5.13b). He worked really hard on a route called “le grand combat” which is one of the best routes I ever tried. He did all the moves pretty fast, but had a hard time to put it all together.
I primary tried to focus on my bad on-sight technique, and I did a few 7b on-sights (5.12b), but nothing harder.


Me on Le grand combat in the start of the route

One of the days a Dutch guy came and talked with us, and we agreed to meet and climb together the next day.

Both Thomas and I were excited to see him climb and since it was his last day in the Ardeche area, we belayed him on a few routes, but we still wanted to climb something our self. We started by warming up on a 7a (5.11d) and then we sent him on a very nice 7b. He climbed so smooth, and it was easy to see that he had been climbing for a lot of years. He’s style was so different from how I’m used to climb. I think he is one of the strongest climbers I’ve ever meet.
We went over to Le grand combat, and I sent it in my 3rd try. I gave him my beta, and we sent him at Le grand combat. He just climbed all the hard moves like it was nothing. Even though it is a route with quite hard moves, he did nothing dynamic. And even though he was so strong that he could easily just campus through all the moves, he used his legs like I’ve never seen any climbers used his legs before. It was so inspiring. He almost flashed Le grand combat, but gave up in the upper crux. But I’m sure that if he had just pulled him self together and done it, he would have got himself another 8a flash.

Unfortunately Thomas didn’t made his 8a, but the next day, I did another 8a in second go. I think that was my biggest succes on the trip. I felt it really easy, but it was of cause also my kind of style of climbing. Heavy boulder moves in pretty much overhang on big holds.

The last couple of days in Ardeche Thomas, his famely and I just chilled out on the camping site. We swam a lot, and climbed only a few routes each day. Thomas and I also put up a slagline between two trees in about 5 meters high above the ground. We then placed a climbing rope about one and a half meters above the slagline, which we sat our cowtail in. We could then walk on the creepy line and if (when) we fell, we only fell about one and a half meter. The first 5-10 times we walked the line, we were so scared that we prevented ourselves walk the line. But when we finally got hold of it, it was one of the most awesome things I’ve ever tried.

Stick around! More to come!!!

Back in the sattle

I have been gone from this blog way to long. I apologies to who have visited my site in vain.
I really don’t know why, but I haven’t been able to log in on my blog, and could therefor not add any new posts about my trips, experiences and training process.
Now I can finally write on the page again, and I hope that I during the next few weeks, can catch up on some all the stuff, I have done the last couple of months.

I’ll be back as soon as possible (which hopefully is a shorter period than from last time I added a post, to now).

The summer vacation

Since I came back from Edinburgh I have been very busy.
At the first I’ve had the final examinations in school, which have been taking some of my time.
But of cause I have also been training a lot.
I’ve trained endurance for three days a week since I returned to Copenhagen. And even though that I have only trained about half of the time I use to do, I have generally and especially just after training, been more tired than I use to be. Simply because it’s endurance is something I am not use to train.
After these four weeks of intensive endurance training, I suppose I should have a much better endurance than for a month ago. But immediately I think that I’m faster getting tired and pumped on routes. Even after a 10 meter traverse on positive holds am I felling pumped.
But I suppose that it’s  primary my brain.
Anyway I feel that I’ve done what I can do to get in good shape for this summer vacation.

Today the danish youth national team (which of cause also includes me) are taking to Linz in Austria, to compete in the youth europe lead cup as takes place there in this weekend.
I’m very exited about it, especially to see their gym as should be pretty cool.

But something I’m really exited about is, that the day after we come home from Linz, am I flying to Ardeche in the southern part of France.
I’m going to climb there for about ten days with my friend Thomas Kjær and his family. I’ve been on a couple on trips with these people, and they are some of the most comfortable and funniest people I know. So I’m REALLY looking forward to this.

Emplacement tente
A picture of the camping site from their internet website.

http://www.camping-mazet-plage.com/welcome.htm

Then the day after I come home from Ardeche, my family and I are flying to Barcelona in Spain. We are going to live about 80 kilometers north for Barcelona city.
My father is also climbing, and four days after we arrive, my very good friend Magnus who I use to climb a lot with, is coming to live with us.
There are plenty of sport climbing, multi-piches, boulder spots and deep water soloing within a little drive from where we live.

Then the last week of the vacation before i starts in the gymnasium, I think I’m going to Sweden or the only place in Denmark where we can climb on rocks, a little island called Bornholm.

So all in all I’m for now on looking forward to a very funny and climbing rich holiday.

I will of cause write as much as possible about my trips, as soon as possible. But as you can see, I will be pretty much booked up for the next 5-6 weeks.
I hope I will find a place on my trips with internet so that I can write more about the experiences I will get.
Otherwise we will all have to wait until I come home in 5-6 weeks.

See yeah. And have a fantastic holiday :-)

Edinburgh

First big international competition this year for the Danish junior national team went to Edinburgh, Scotland.

An impressive city with a lot of nice old looking buildings.
We lived at the Art Rock Hostel which pretty much lies in the middle of the city.
One of the days we were at the Scottish  national museum. If you like museums this is certainly a overwhelming place to be. But since most of the juniors have a lot of energy, this wasn’t really a big success.

But the climbing gym was however. Some of us were there last year to, but still it is a great experience. EICA Ratho is the biggest indoor climbing gym in Europe. And I think that it is an amazing sight for every climber, no matter where from you come. Especially if you comes from little Denmark with our 8-12 meters
lead walls.

The competition walls

The competition wall itself is only half of the gyms lead walls. They also have an ok boulder, and three fake rock boulder blocs indoor, in the center of the gym.
They also have a fine cafeteria, a shop and good facilities in general. So a big and good commercial climbing gym.
The only minus about EICA Ratho is, that it is freaking fucking cold. And at this competition in the end of May month, those how climb there every day told us that it was even much colder than usual at this time of the year.

The competition was great. It was funny to participate but I haven’t really trained enough endurance to be able to get a good ranking. I already knew this so I didn’t expected to do were well. But it seems that others from the team got very disappointed and surprised, that the level was this high.
At the first route all of the holds was slopy and pinchy, and all of the danish climbers fell way to soon to get a good ranking. Also almost all of the very good with a lot of competition experience fell surprising soon at this first qualification.
At the second qualification route not just some, and not just several, but all of the holds ( at least until approx. 5-6 meters from the top, where Thomas and I fell ) was jugs. It was very positive holds, all of them. But even though that the holds was good, the wall is about 1,8 times higher than the walls in my gym, and about 2,2 times higher than the walls in the gym where Thomas train, and therefor we seriously pumped out. Both of us fell because we wasn’t able to ensure the express sling. We pumped to much.
But at this route, we still was in the lower half of the ranking, but we climbed astonishing far. I think that I at the first route climbed about one fourth of the route, and at the second qualification route I climbed three-fourths of the route. And I really enjoyed it. Instead of only climb a little at this big competitions, I suddenly tried to climb most of a route. And I just didn’t wanted to fall of. It was just to much fun.

Annika (in the light) and I (at the right) on our second qualifications climbing side by side

At this competition Denmark had a lot of competitors. We were eleven from Denmark who participated in the competition. The three best rankings from Denmark ended up with this was: Youth A boys rank 22 out of 30 Thomas Blaabjerg, rank 23 out of 30 Elias Edvardsen. Youth B girls rank 11 out of 25 Annika Korsgaard.
So overall a VERY good performance from Annika in her first big lead competition, and not so good from the other of us.
But it was funny and instructive to participate.
We all learned that we gotta go home and train a lot. A lot, a lot, a lot of endurance, so that we can be ready to the next big competition in Linz in a month from now on.

Sicily

I know that it now is pretty long time since I wrote last time. But the school and the examinations are just taking almost all the time I have.
But now I’m ready to rock again.

In the Easter vacation I was at Sicily at camping El Bahira to climb.
I can’t say so much, except from that… It was GREAT! Defiantly a place that I highly recommend.
The camping locality was perfect. I seriously could through a stone, onto the rock. And most of the climbing was really fine climbing.
The nature is also really beautiful. The camping site is also laying just next to the water with an excellent view over the Mediterranean.
Unfortunately is it a little difficult to get into the water unless you have bathing shoes. The nearest sand beach is in the city San capo del vito, which is about 4 kilometers from El Bahira.
It is only lead climbing, and there is still a lot of lines that aren’t bolted yet.
It’s also such a new area that a lot of places is the top of the rock very sharp. But luckily it’s never hard climbing at these places.
But it is a fantastic spot. I really love it.

Me on ”red alert” 7c (5.12d) an amazing line

I climbed some fantastic lines. I did a couple of 7c’s (5.12d), a 7b (5.12b) on-sight and a 7b+ (5.12c) on-sight.
And even though I had decided that I didn’t wanted to project climb at this trip, I tried the most impressive route I have EVER tried. Dreamworld is it called. It is such an amazing line. And the climbing was just so fine. Of cause I did wanted to climb the route, but the main reason that I tried it four times before I did it in fifth try, was because it was such a great route in every way.
As the youngest climber in Denmark ever, I climbed the grade 8a+/8b (5.13c/d).
I’m pretty proud, but I’m also so satisfied and grateful by have climbed this route.

I can only say that next time you are going on a trip, consider this place.
Everyone I’ve spoked about El Bahire with agrees, it is defiantly a place we will return to.

View from the coast

http://www.elbahira.it/

Kjugekull

This weekend I was in Kjugekull, witch is a great boulder place in the southern Sweden near Kristianstad.
Two from my team (Magnus and Mathis) and I drove up there early saturday morning. Since we all are under 18 and therefor aren’t aloud to drive car, Magnus’ parents drove us up there, and waited all day long in the forest and then drove us home again. Very kindly of them.

Magnus on V4 in Kjugekull

Magnus on V4 at Kjugekull

I’ve only been to Kjuge one or two time before and it’s a couple of years ago. So then I only climbed the absolute easiest boulder problems at there. I must say that I was kind of chocked… It was really hard. The hardest I did was a 7a+ (V7). I also did some 7a’s, 6c’s and 6c+’s but the hardest i flashed was a 6c (V5).
I also only tried a few 7b’s and 7b+’s and I was pretty close to do some of them but I simply don’t climb enough on rocks to climb that hard right now.
It was first after 4-5 hours that we began to get a feeling of climbing on the boulders. Cause there just is a huge different between climbing on rock or indoor on plastic.

If some of you ever come to Danmark, Sweden or Norway I will defiantly recommend you to take to Kjugekull.

See you sone enough.

After nordic championship

Sorry it took so long, but like I said last time I had to go to this big gymnastic highschool. And that school… is cool. It is gigantic school were everything is concentrated about sport. Primary gymnastic but also a lot, a lot, a lot of dancing, ball games and a lot of other activities.
The reason that I didn’t already wrote about the time I spent there and of cause the Nordic boulder championship is, that on the day before I should go home, I fell during a backflip in a trampoline, and landed directly on the neck. Luckily I didn’t broke anything, but I properly pre-strechet some muscles my back and my rips really hurts. But I really think I was lucky.
Unfortunately this now have affect on my training. I can’t campus and neither can I do hard boulder sessions.
But actually it not as bad as it could be. It fits fine in my training, cause it will soon enough be Easter, witch for my part means Easter trip. As I already have been writing, am I on wednesday in next week (the 28th) going to Secily in Italy. Im looking so much forward to it.
But this just means that I have to practice lead climbing and training endurance. And in spite of my pain is this some of the training I can do.

Well. The nordic boulder championship was a great competition. The problems was really fun climbing, actually in the qualification I never tried so many funny boulder problems in one day. I enjoyed the climbing so much, it was so much fun.
And even though I was unsure if I was gone further to the finals, I was going to the finals on a second place out of the six who were going to the finals. On first place to the finals was Thomas Holm Blaabjerg from Aalborg climbing club who with no doubt is the greatest junior climber we have in Denmark.

In the qualification there were 10 problems. I did 9 in 12 tries, and the others in the finals were some really good climbers. Inter alia Jakob Herber Norum who came second at the european junior boulder cup in Munich last year. And also came fourth at world junior championship in lead in Imst also last year.
The others than Thomas and myself used 15 tries or more to do 8-9 problems.
Thomas Blaabjerg flashed all 10 problems.
I think that it in itself says something about his niveau.

But then in the finals everything changed.
The climbing was way to difficult. A boulder competition has to been settled on the numbers of tops, not on bonus/zones.
But in this case there were TWO out of six who topped ONE out of four problem. And the one who who topped in fewest tries was the one who won. Everybody was surprised and maybe also a little confused. I ended up on fifth or six place and Thomas Blaabjerg on fouth place. None of us was satisfied with this ranking, but I really am proud about having climbed that well in the qualification, so I just keep thinking on that.

About the seniors can I say that I definitely hadn’t the time that I wanted to watch them climb.
Nalle unfortunately didn’t came. The day before the competition he got fever so he never even came to Denmark.
But Anthony Gullsten came, and he was crazy. He also won. A lot of other climbers also were really strong, mostly people whom I didn’t knew. Bjørn Ilsager unfortunately didn’t performed good enough to come in the final. But another danish climber, Robin Vickery was on the first place after the semi finals. In the final it just didn’t went as good as it could have. He ended up on a six place, witch of cause also is extremely impressive.

Well thats all for now folks. I return in a few days with some new posts (if the weather is good I will go boulder at Kjugekull). Else I will infact write before I take to Secila.

Nordic championship

Tomorrow the nordic boulder championship will be kept in north europe’s biggest boulder gym, Copenhagen boulders.
Almost all of the best climbers from Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Finland and of cause Denmark will participate in this competition.
I am really looking forward to this. Even though I know that this will be a really tough year. I am the youngest in my group (U17) and there are some extremely hardcore competitors.
I am also very excited to see the seniors climb. I know that there are some seriously crazy guys. Inter alia: Bjørn Arnel Lisager from Denmark and Nalle Hukkataival from Finland who have climbed V15 bloc. And of cause a lot of other very well climbers.

It is possible to see the finals live on: http://www.dr.dk/Sporten/MinSport/2012/02/29135252.htm
It start at 09.00 am.
There will for sure also come some videos on youtube after the competition.

Unfortunately I can’t write about the event just after the competition. Cause at Sunday evening I go visiting one of Denmark’s best gymnastic high schools. I hope that I there will learn about a lot of other kinds of exercise.

I will write much more about these two things as soon as possibly.

Thats all for know… See ya!